Most dress patterns will have a notch at the zipper end mark. This pattern doesn't, so I had to mark the end. See the red pin? This pattern calls for an 16 inch zipper. I think that is a bit too long for this little dress, so I remeasured the back and marked it for a 12 inch zipper. The length doesn't matter, this method will work for any zipper.
Match the center seam of the two backs. Pay attention to the waistline seam. You want these to match.
Now, at the zippers end (the red pin) use your seam ripper and break the thread just above your back stitching (both sides) and press the seam open.
Change to your zipper foot. Look at the zipper tape. You notice the tape is woven in two separate directions so it forms that little line down its middle? Stitch down that line to about 1/4 inch passed the red pin marking the end of the zipper or, if your zipper is the right size, to the end of the zipper tape. Check the back to see everything is smooth and flat, then press that side to relax the stitching.
Now, pin and stitch the other side of the zipper. If your zipper foot is not adjustable (like mine) you will have to start from the bottom of the tape. If it is adjustable, you can stitch from the top. Check your back for puckers, etc., and make sure your waist seams match up, then press to relax the stitching.
This is what the right side looks like.
Using your seam ripper, open the seam to the end of the zipper. Look, it zips up and down!
Back to step 1 of the pattern directions, stitch your shoulder seams, trim and press open. (Now you know where I picked up the habit of pressing seams open, LOL.)
(Sorry for the lousy picture above. I was pressing open the shoulder seams on the needleboard.)
You can hang this up now.
Just a little note. Had we been working on cotton fabric (which does not slip) the installation would have been even easier. I would have used scotch tape down both sides of the zipper (no pins) to hold it in place and sewn it from the top of one side, across the bottom (always back stitch at least 3 times here) and up the other side.
Now how do you feel about the Dreaded Zipper?
Love from Liriopia